Monday, November 26, 2012

France: The kids discover the Western World

It was our first time to leave Africa since we arrived nearly two years ago. Hannah has changed from a crawling 10 month-old into a young lady of 2.5 years, and William has almost doubled his age. What they know is Rwanda. It was fascinating to watch the children discover a western country for the ‘first’ time.

Our first chortles of laughter came in the aeroplane. On entering the tiny but very white toilet Hannah’s eyes went wide as she looked around and she uttered a very impressed, “Wow! Nice!”

A little later some of the passengers disembarked in Uganda at the official end of the flying triangle. We waited in our seats while cleaners boarded the plane to get it ready for the next lot. A vacuum cleaner was being pushed up and down the isle. Tim and I barely noticed. The kids looked at it in fascination, and Hannah asked a very confused, “What’s that for Daddy?” No need for vacuum cleaners in Rwanda. Carpet would certainly be more trouble than it’s worth in muddy rainy season!

When we arrived in Amsterdam and then finally Paris there were more discoveries; conveyor belts and escalators quickly progressed from scary to fun, toys shops were hard to walk past, trains hurtled us through long, dark tunnels in the underground and everywhere we went we (relatively) blended in. Hannah was constantly looking all around her in wonder. There was also the discovery of being cold; the children, for the first time in two years, let me put long layers on them without complaint.

On arrival in our friend’s apartment Tim said, “Watch this William.” Then filled a glass with tap water and drank the lot. William laughed at such a naughty display. He was impressed when we told him he could drink the water too and asked if he could have some. We loved having clean, reliable, even hot water whenever we needed to wash dishes, bathe or drink. I really enjoyed filling a glass with or washing salad in tap water, drinking from a glass that was clean but not dry and touching the stove without getting an electric shock. It made me smile every time.

Then the children discovered TV. “What was that? I wanted to watch that!” William exclaimed during the advertisements. One day I fell asleep watching TV with the kids and of course the TV kept working without my help. I woke quite some time later to hear William say, “You know Hannah, if you watch too much TV you’ll die!” Suffice to say there were no arguments when I switched it off.

Tim and I watched with a mixture of amusement and horror as we saw the ads in the middle of a kid’s cartoon aimed one after the other straight at our children. It was like the advertisers could see inside their heads. It started…”I want that Mummy”. I told the kids that the people who make those toys are trying to trick them into wanting to buy them so that they can have lots of money. After a moment’s pause I was really impressed when William replied, “But Mummy, then we won’t have money to buy food and things.” Score. His thought process didn’t last long in a shopping centre though. Consumerism! We already looked forward to escaping it.

At the same time we revelled in the things we could buy, and their quality. A wonderful variety of fresh and packaged produce allowed us to rediscover with delight food we had stopped thinking about. We bought plug ends and power boards, so excited that these ones might last more than a few months when we fitted them to our stove and other appliances back home. I went to a cheap clothing shop and came home feeling chuffed with new maternity clothes for the same price they would have cost second-hand in the market in Butare (where the opportunity shop left-overs end up after being sent to Africa). Inevitably, we went overboard and bought treats and other special items. We felt guilty, and justified, and rather confused. We missed being able to buy all this stuff and yet longed to be away from it again. In Rwanda, we mostly enjoy being away from over-the-top choice and advertising enticing us to want things we don’t need.

It wasn’t all play for Tim. He attended the European Gastroenterology Conference and came away feeling it had been very worthwhile. He learnt much and made some great new connections for his work in Rwanda.

Towards the end of our time we ended up at the Mediterranean Sea in the south of France. Rwanda is in the middle of Africa, far from any beach, and the children had no memory of sand and sea. They ran down the sand in delight towards the sparkling water. William had a ball constructing a sand castle with Tim, like he’d read about in books. Despite the chilly breeze and cold water, Hannah quickly stripped off and didn’t stop squealing with delight as she jumped in the water for the next half hour. I couldn’t help feeling like a bad mother the whole time, relieved there were no Rwandan mothers present to witness my child getting so cold. In Rwanda, I get told off if the kid’s aren’t wearing a jumper in 20 degrees as people worry children will die if they get too cold. It was a pleasure to watch Hannah’s delight, but I couldn’t help feeling relief once she finally came over and said, “I’m cold” and I could warm her up again and stop feeling guilty.

During our stay we saw wonderful places and had wonderful experiences in France. However, like always, it was the people that mattered most. We spent precious time with Tim’s parents and one of his sisters. We stayed with and saw dear friends.  It was a special time that we are most grateful for.

We boarded the plane with mixed feelings. We were leaving people and pleasures behind, and going towards others. Then as we drove from Kigali to Butare the next day, the children asked if they could visit their best friends who they had missed a lot. By the end of the next day they had played with them twice. We were home. After a great adventure with people we love, it is good to be back.

In Paris we saw lots of parks, via metro. P1110436

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The village we stayed in, Northern Burgundy
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Aunty Janet arrives and quickly becomes the number one favourite!P1110805

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When we asked William what his favourite thing in France was, this was it:P1110930

Monday, August 13, 2012

Nyungwe Again

My Aunt Marney and cousin Bronwyn came to visit. for a few days. It was so good to see them! Here are some pics from our walk in Nyungwe Forest, one hour from home.

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Our guide, Clever, is aptly named. He knows so much about everything in the forest!

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A Great Blue Turaco, 75cm long

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After seeing a Mahogany tree I could never buy it’s wood. How slowly they grow and how magnificent they are in old age! A tree my height is 10 years old. This specimen is hundreds of years old.

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Note to self: a rain forest doesn’t have a dry season. Bring a jacket.

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Thursday, August 9, 2012

A Nice Place To Be

It’s been a long time since we posted on the blog. I think it’s a sign of how settled we are. In the beginning we wanted to share our new and unusual experiences. Now we have few of them: it has become quite natural to be here. Well, relatively anyway. We will never understand this culture the way we do in Australia, but these days our learning curve has slowed down. This is very helpful.

It’s the looooong school holidays at the moment. We are really enjoying having William around more. His teacher, Anysie, came to visit the other day (for some help with understanding medical English for an assignment she is doing – so many people here seem to be studying while working). It made me (Catherine) smile to see how comfortable he is with her. He talked exuberantly about what’s been going on in his holiday. This is very, very unusual for our shy William: when most visitors come we struggle to get him to greet them properly if they are new, and he certainly is not chatty even if he knows them. He likes Anysie and they obviously have a great relationship.

We went to the Kumbya Conference for protestant missionaries recently. It was a lovely time, getting to know lots of lovely people and sharing a tent with our young German friends Moritz and Ilva. We said goodbye to them both yesterday; their year in Rwanda has ended and they will return to begin university. Moritz said he will always remember with a smile the morning Hannah woke up in the tent as the sun was thinking about rising, unzipped it, walked out to the car (where the food was stored) and yelled across the camp site, “Mum I’m sooooooo hungry. I want some food. I want food Mum. Mum I want food.” Until I rushed out to her to still the noise and showed her there was bread in the tent. He said it was a great way to wake up. As you can see, he is very nice.

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Part of the new refugee camp for Congolese fleeing the war there. We passed it on the way to Kumbya.

The children attended a ‘school’ at the conference. I was so excited to see a well-resourced, fun program unfolding in English. Hannah loved it. She would ask at the end of each session if she could please go back again soon. William, on the other hand, didn’t want to go. It taught me something important: it’s just his personality to need to have special friends in his class to feel at home. It obviously wasn’t the different teaching methods or the low number of resources that made going to school in Butare difficult for him in Term 1 after all. In fact, William kept asking if he could go to his school in Butare instead! I’m very pleased to know this – it’s a great relief. I can’t help laughing remembering the time the children at Kumbya met in a different building for school (I, of course, forgot and took them to the normal place). All the way down the hill William cried, “I don’t want to go to school”, and all the way back up Hannah was crying, “Where is school? Where is school?”. Perhaps an illustration of the years to come?

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Hannah playing with Rae-An

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William and his new friend Johannas, dressed as bears for Noah’s Ark. William of course opted not to perform on stage, but he looked cute.

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Hannah as a butterfly for Noah’s Ark. We woke her up for the performance knowing she had been looking forward to it.

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blog (6 of 9)Moritz and Ilva, our friends who shared our tent, teaching everyone a German song

There was a skit night at Conference. Last year Hannah was 1 year and 4 months. We spent the whole time trying to keep her off the stage, so this year I wrote her name down. Still, we were surprised that she wasn’t at all scared of singing into a microphone in front of 150 people. She loved it, and afterwards kept giving us reasons to let her go back and sing more.

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Hannah loving singing ABC to 150 people

William, meanwhile, had been reflecting on his week. He said to Tim, “I know how to make friends Daddy.” “How do you do that?” Tim asked. “You find someone you don’t know, and you play with them. Then you play with them again, and again. Then they’re you’re friend!”

We’re back home in Butare. Back to work and play. It’s a nice place to be.

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Our house last night. It was Moritz’s farewell from Running Club. Tim was too sick for the planned half marathon, but they ran their normal route together one last time.Then spaghetti bolognaise and garlic bread with twenty people for dinner. You can see me here with my good friend Gloria who just topped the exams to become one of the newest internal medicine physicians. We have the pleasure of her company several times a week and will miss her when she moves back to Kigali. I’m in awe of the way Gloria and many of my Rwandan friends can switch from Kinyarwanda to French to English without blinking when talking to various people in the room.

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Nyungwe Forest and Our Friend Jean

Our friend Jean came to visit. It was great to see her! Here are some pics from a guided walk we did in Nyungwe forest, an hour from home.

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You can see Nyungwe in the distance

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We learnt about the local uses of many of the plants. Very interesting! One is even said to cure amoebae: a research project in the making for Tim? The forest rangers now collect seeds from these plants to give to people to grow for medicines so that they do not need to gather them from the forest; a great idea!

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It’s rainy season, and there has been flooding in many parts of the country recently. Many houses made with mud bricks have collapsed. The power and speed of the waterfall in the forest made me dizzy! In the dry season it is, apparently, quite small.

The swamp that feeds directly into this waterfall has a story to its name. In the past when men hunted elephants, if the elephant reached the swamp it could move so much faster that they gave up, saying, “That elephant was swallowed by the swamp.” The swamp became Elephant Swallow. Thus this is Elephant Swallow Waterfall.

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After a beautiful morning walking, as we drove home in the afternoon the expected daily rain began to fall in patches.

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